So like I did with the last unit I painted, I painted a 28mm figure in the same style as my 10mm unit I just completed. Someone commented on the last post if I was going to do a mascot for each 10mm unit I did. I like the mascot idea.
Friday, August 11, 2017
Thursday, August 10, 2017
Saturday, July 29, 2017
I finished my 3rd unit for my Almanza project is completed. The Berwick battalion arrives to aid the French and Spanish. I painted this unit while I painted the 28mm figure in my previous post.
Thursday, July 27, 2017
So on a whim while I was gearing up to paint my next unit of 10mm WSS figures, I decided to paint one 28mm figure that would match the unit I was painting. I'm not much of a 28mm painter as I have a hard time with blending, shading etc but I thought I would give it a try. I'm almost done with the 10mm unit and will post that tomorrow or Saturday. Still have to paint the flag.
Saturday, July 8, 2017
I think the flag looks okay.
I will be taking about a week or so off from painting as I'm heading to Historicon on Tuesday.
Thursday, June 29, 2017
I have finished my first unit of French for my Battle of Almanza project. It took me about 3 weeks of painting to get these done and that is due to the crazy schedule we've had here for the last few weeks. Now that things have settled down a little bit I should be able to complete more units a little bit faster. Although my trip to Historicon in a few weeks will put me a bit behind.
Overall the figures which are Old Glory 10mm, painted up quickly. This first unit had a white primer applied and then I did a wash of Agrax Earthshade to bring out the detail. It did help in making things pop so I could see them. The next unit, in the back ground, will have been primed black. Depending on which I like better I will paint the rest of them the same way.
This unit is the Blesois battalion. The uniform colors and flag colors came from Robert Hall's CD on the French Army 1688-1714. I hand painted the flag. It looks better from a distance. :) The bases are 30mm x 30mm and 3 ranks deep.
Wednesday, June 14, 2017
I'm color blind. Not 100% color blind but enough to where it makes painting figures, the house, choosing clothing that matches etc.. a challenge. I have also consistently failed the color eye chart they give you when you go to get your eye exam. I tend to have problems with Blues/Purples, Reds/Browns and usually it happens when the colors start getting really close together in hue. So I have adapted my ability to paint figures with being very precise about what colors I'm going to use for a uniform. I need to know exactly what bottle of Vallejo I should use in order to paint my AWI figures and so on. This has led me to purchasing a huge amount of paint. Also it has led me to having less than dramatic looking figures as I have a really hard time finding colors to highlight what I've already painted. My daughter has been a big help in picking colors and suggesting how to mix somethings together to get to the color I needed.
A few weeks ago I was perusing the Historicon PEL and noticed a class called "Color Mixing: Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green". I was intrigued by the title and the description and promptly went out and bought the book. The opening chapter turned the light switch on for me on why in the past when I've mixed, lets say, red and blue together to try and get purple, it ended up looking like mud or very dull. The understanding that, for example, the color red could be on either side of the red spectrum. Red with more orange or Red with more violet in it. If you didn't pick the right spectrum of red or blue for the purple you were going for, it would turn out dull or muddy. Also the understanding that there is no "real" Primary color as your surroundings and lighting affect what you see the ideal of a pure Red, Blue and Yellow don't really exist.
After reading the book and then rereading certain sections I went to the local Blick Art Supply store and bought the paints I needed to try mixing colors using Mr. Wilcox's technique. Below you will find my experiment.
The book in question!
My pallet for this experiment.
The colors I have purchased following the books guidelines and pigment numbers.
Cadmium Red-leans towards the orange spectrum
Alizarin Crimson-faces the violet spectrum
Ultramarine Blue- also faces the violet spectrum.
Cerulean Blue- faces the green spectrum
Hansa Yellow Pale-Also faces the green spectrum
Cadmium Yellow-leans towards the orange spectrum.
So my first test was to take the Cad. Red and Cad. Yellow and make orange. That's what I got!
Next was Alizarin Crimson and Ultramarine Blue to make Violet.
Then Hansa Yellow Pale and Cerulean Blue to make green.
All of them turned out pretty well. Then I decided to mix different amounts of one color with another to change up the end product. Below are my results. I also then took the starting colors and mixed Cad. Red with Alizarin Crimson together for a solid red and then did same with the yellows and blues.
I like the results and more importantly I can see the difference in them. I thought about having another pallet where I show what happens when you mix Cerulean Blue and Cad. Yellow together but I decided to stop where I was at for the moment. I can do another blog post on that if anyone is interested.
Now comes the leap of faith. Below are two units of my new War of Spanish Succession project I'm getting ready to start. Since the uniforms are typically bright colors this system should work for what I need. Also I'm going to try and decide if I like the white primed figures over the black primed ones. It is sometimes hard for me to pick out some of the details on black primed figures.
I primed the above unit with white and then I took agrax earthshade and washed it over the figures. The detail really pops out now and it adds in a nice shadow to the recesses.
I'm sure most of this is old hat to most of you but I thought I would share it anyway.